While at Vans, we had the opportunity to collaborate with several talented people within the organization, which helped us grow and learn along the way. We even got the chance to work on some inline projects for 2025. We expanded our skills in Illustrator, explored new approaches to color and construction, and tackled the project we're excited to share with you today. We were given the challenge of creating our own brief with no limits—except that it had to be a capsule collection that made our manager uncomfortable. With that, we created our project statement:
When we first began ideating on our project, we focused on what Vans meant to us, what the brand represents, and how we could connect with a generation both culturally and stylistically. Inspired by icons like Miles Davis, Nina Simone, Teddy Monk, and many more, we’ll show you how these figures influenced our design process. Our goal was not to repeat the past, but to uncover its layers and use them to inform and reimagine the future.
So, what is Black Ivy? From a style perspective, Black Ivy is about taking the traditional language and codes of classic Ivy styles and subverting them, making them their own by blending workwear and sportswear. Black Ivy is the epitome of "cool," combining tailoring and customization into a distinct, unique style. Symbolically, it was a form of armor, worn in the nonviolent pursuit of change. Those who embraced Black Ivy took control of their own narrative, challenged the status quo, and honored it at the same time. Unlike traditional Ivy style, Black Ivy celebrated the outsider. It wasn't just a way of dressing—it was a way of doing and being.
Which brings us to the next point: why Black Ivy and Vans? Much like skate culture, Black Ivy style and Jazz represent self-empowerment, improvisation, and rebellion, while celebrating Black heritage and creativity. We saw a natural connection to the ethos of Vans—embodying a spirit of rebellion, freedom, and individuality. Vans has always been for the people: the rebellious, the free-spirited, and the room shakers. Our goal was to create a collection that brings these unique worlds together in one space.
Through our research, we focused on three key insights and values we wanted to address for our consumer, Henri. As the world rapidly evolves, Henri and others like him will continue to make more thoughtful and intentional purchasing decisions. Specifically, they will prioritize sustainable options, diverse styles that express their identity, and gravitate towards brands with substance and meaning behind them.
Through these insights and values, we identified key opportunities for this collection. By focusing on sustainability with regenerative materials and creating elevated styles that resonate with Henri beyond just footwear, we aimed to strengthen the emotional and mental connection with the brand. This collection offers a chance for Vans to cultivate a deeper community, speaking to a demographic immersed in a distinct musical and cultural landscape. We saw it as an opportunity for Vans to highlight and celebrate authenticity, investing in a clear cultural point of view beyond their usual focus.
Here we have our color story, titled The Birth of the Cool, inspired by one of Miles Davis’ most renowned albums. Drawing from the album’s name, I chose cool blues and lavenders to evoke the ambience and feeling of being immersed in jazz. Rich earth tones like mulberry and deep earth hues were used to capture luxury, warmth, and sophistication. Finally, vintage neutrals help balance the palette, with vibrant pops of color placed strategically for maximum impact.
For our design elements, we focused on versatility—not only in styling through garment choice but also in usability and fit. Staying true to our musical theme, we incorporated rhythmic design lines to create a sense of harmony throughout. Additionally, we blended Vans' DNA with the heritage of Black Ivy, reflecting this through silhouette choices, features, and materials.
We were drawn to the Black Ivy concept of taking Ivy League style and making it your own—dressing it up or down, altering the fit, and embodying that spirit of rebellion and progress, all while maintaining a sense of quiet luxury. From there, we envisioned what this could look like in a more contemporary setting, viewed through the Vans lens, and aimed to create a collection that empowers people of all genders to express themselves.
The Baldwin, named after James Baldwin, is a straight-fit oxford shirt that anchors the Black Ivy wardrobe. It features distressed exposed seams, a jazz stripe-inspired front pocket, a back box pleat for mobility, and is crafted from 100% regenerative organic cotton with durable, biodegradable corozo buttons.
The Miles Polo features a ¾-length concealed zipper at the front, inspired by Miles Davis’ signature open-shirt style. Made from 100% regenerative organic cotton, it includes an oversized collar, back yoke, and ribbed sleeve and hem details, with a textured waffle knit pattern echoing a Vans waffle sole.
The Baldwin V-Neck Sweater is a heavyweight, 5-gauge rib-knit piece with an oversized, boxy fit, crafted from 100% recycled wool. Its modular design adds versatility, allowing it to be worn as a sweater or a vest through button closures on cotton-woven panels beneath the cap sleeves.
The Lawrence Hoodie, named after renowned artist Jacob Lawrence, features two-way concealed zippers running along the front and over the shoulder, allowing the wearer to adjust the fit. Made from 300 GSM brushed French terry fabric crafted from 100% regenerative organic cotton, the hoodie uses a lighter weight version of the same material in the gusset area.
The Ali Track Jacket, inspired by classic vintage track jackets and named after Muhammad Ali, features paneling under the arms with piping along the seams. It also includes a 4-inch high collar, encased elastic cuffs, and a hem that sits neatly at the waist.
The Ali Track Pant features a trouser waistband that elevates the silhouette, offering versatility to dress it up or down for any occasion.
Made from a blend of regenerative organic cotton and Tencel lyocell, this tracksuit replaces polyester with Tencel, known for its comfort and eco-friendly production. Tencel is biodegradable, made from 100% wood pulp, and has high durability, moisture-wicking properties, and is gentle on the skin. The panels are joined with rhythmic seam lines and piping, leading to a concealed zipper in the inseam.
The Jeru Denim Jacket, named after the Miles Davis song "Jeru," features an oversized Peter Pan collar and rhythmic seam lines that highlight color contrasts, stitched with a single-needle topstitch. It also includes metal shank buttons for a classic denim jacket look, with a cropped, boxy fit that sits at the waist.
For the color execution, we used two shades of indigo pigment dye—dark navy and a lighter shade—complementing each other for a unique finish.
The Jeru Denim Pant features two pleats, triple-needle stitching for reinforcement during skateboarding, and knee articulation for added comfort and mobility. It also includes a rhythmic back yoke and back pockets.
Made from a regenerative cotton and hemp blend, the fabric offers durability and eco-friendliness. Hemp is stronger than regular cotton denim, softens over time, is thermo-regulating, and has a unique texture and drape.
The Jules Reversible Blazer is a cropped, boxy fit featuring two different pocket styles: a flap pocket and a welt pocket. Each side showcases different fabrications and prints, which I will elaborate on further.
For hardware, we used corozo buttons. One side of the reversible blazer features a solid cotton twill fabric, while the other side is made from recycled wool with a warped houndstooth pattern, adding a modern twist to a classic design and a subtle flex when being worn.
The Monk Overcoat, named after Thelonious Monk, is inspired by classic black ivy overcoats, with modern updates including a rhythmic front yoke inspired by the jazz stripe, underarm panels, and an exaggerated collar with triple-needle stitching, matching the detailing in the denim pants.
Made from medium-weight (12oz.) duck canvas, the coat features two vents at the back and openings under the arms for added airflow and comfort, perfect for Henri to play the trumpet at his weekend jazz gigs. Additionally, we designed a special spot for his trumpet.
The Coltrane Weekender Duffle features two straps that loop under the bag to accommodate a skateboard, along with custom V-shaped D-rings for handle connections and tie-down straps at the zipper ends. A chenille V-patch pays homage to classic Ivy League style, also seen on the Baldwin sweater, while perfectly sized pad dividers ensure Henri can carry his trumpet with ease.
For materials, we used durable duck canvas on the bottom and buttery Mirum leather for the body and straps. Mirum is the first plastic-free alternative to traditional leather, 100% recyclable, circular, and has a low carbon footprint. The interior features a warped houndstooth lining for added flair.
The 6-panel cap features rhythmic stitch lines on the brim, a chenille patch logo on the side, and a metal clasp for adjustment at the back, with a debossed logo on the strap.
Made from brushed recycled wool, the Rhythm cap is accented with a Mirum leather strap for a sustainable yet stylish touch.
Our final piece, the Miles Sunglasses, draws inspiration from Miles Davis, known for his eccentric styles of glasses. While his sunglasses were certainly a part of his aesthetic, they were also functional—often featuring side protectors to help him concentrate and conceal his expressions while performing. Sunglasses were an important element to Black Ivy, symbolizing detachment and offering protection both literally and metaphorically. For Davis, wearing sunglasses wasn’t just about fashion—it was also a way to avoid eye contact with racists.
Made from 100% bio-acetate, the sunglasses feature a metallic varsity V emblem on the temple and a gradient finish on the lenses, combining both style and purpose.
And lastly, we had the great opportunity to collaborate with Deborah Ramos and Lauren Gibbs on a 3D asset, and this is the result. I’m truly grateful for their effort and contributions to this project.
